Northwest paddlers have always known the Kitsap Peninsula is a world-class destination for water fun. Now, the Kitsap Peninsula Water Trails Map has been released that is sure to bring even more kayak and paddleboard enthusiasts. The map is the result of years of work by the North Kitsap Trails Association, the Olympic Outdoor Center and the Kitsap Peninsula Visitor and Convention Bureau. It will be incredibly helpful for paddlers looking for where to park, where to put in, and where to avoid public property. One side of the map shows 59 places to paddle on Kitsap, while the other details all the spots on Bainbridge Island. Best of all, the map is free and will be available on the Bureau’s website as well as at many local kayaking retailers.

Outdoors NW is proud to be a sponsor of the map!

www.visitkitsap.com

Bike to Work Day is Almost Here!

Photo courtesy of Cascade Bicycle Club

The Puget Sound region will be abuzz with bicycle commuters May 18 during the annual Bike to Work Day. In Seattle, the F5 Bike to Word Day will kick off with a rally at City Hall (yes, Mayor McSchwinn will be riding) and end with a block party in Ballard. Kids will be at it too, biking to school with parents and posses of classmates. It’s a great way to show support for better bike infrastructure in our communities. Plus, it’s carbon neutral and good for you. Experienced bike commuters – be patient with the newbies on the roads. Motorists, slow down and share the road. Better yet, ditch your car and dust off the bike. In Spokane, Bike to Work week is May 20-26. Check the month-long bike commuting schedule at www.cascade.org

www.cbcef.org

Ilwaco Lighthouse Celebration

North Head Lighthouse. Photo by Craig Romano

What do you get for a lighthouse turning 114? Better decide soon, because on May 19, the North Head Lighthouse in Ilwaco is having a birthday.

The celebration is scheduled from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. 19 at Cape Disappointment State Park, 244 Robert Gray Drive, Ilwaco. The event commemorates the anniversary of the historic lighthouse by offering self-guided tours of the Lighthouse Keeper’s Residence, memories shared by those who lived at, or cared for, the lighthouse and live music by the Ilwaco High School Jazz Band. The North Head gift shop will be open during the event. Don’t forget your Discover Pass — you’ll need it to attend this event.

Be sure to check out the May/June edition of Outdoors NW in print and online for our feature on The Discovery Trail between Long Beach and Ilwaco and our website for an exclusive online-only feature on nearby Tokeland!

>>Click here to read more . . .

Photo at right: 2010 NW Adventure Sports Festival. Photo by Kellie Kuntz

Check out the video below . . .

Adventure races, kayak and standup paddleboard demos and vendors share their experience at the 2011 NW Adventure Sports Festival in Port Gamble, Washington. Video by Northwoods Productions.

The NW Adventure Sports Festival, June 9–10 on the Kitsap Peninsula

Port Gamble, Washington — There is a secret outdoor mecca waiting to be discovered just an hour from Seattle and Tacoma. On June 9–10, 2012, the NW Adventure Sports Festival will open the gates to this outdoor adventurers dream.

With 7000 acres of mountain biking, trail running, hiking and birding trails next to town and direct access to hundreds of miles of waterways, Port Gamble is the perfect place for this unique event.

500–700 participants are expected to participate in this third annual Festival. The hosts, the Olympic Outdoor Center and KayakProShop.com, have created events that will please everyone from Mr. Hardcore Outdoor to little Susie who’s parents are curious about kayaking.

This year the Festival’s highlights will be:

- DEMOS all weekend of outdoor equipment for all ages and experience levels (kayaks, standup paddleboards, mountain bikes, paddles, drysuits, clothing, etc.)

- FOOD all weekend by the famous J’aimes les Crepes

- BEER GARDEN Saturday 12-6:00

- CLINICS all weekend on sea kayaking, standup paddleboarding and mountain biking

- FAMILY FUN FAIR Saturday 2-5:00

- CAMPING Friday and Saturday

- Adventure Races: open to teams or individuals

• THE BEAST Adventure Triathlon: 10K trail run, 15K paddle, 20K mountain bike
• MINI-BEAST Sprint Adventure Triathlon: 5K trail run, 5K paddle, 10K mountain bike

- FESTIVAL FUN RUN: 5K or 10K

- PADDLE the DRAGON paddling race: 5K or 15K on the Hood Canal, open to all human-powered watercraft.

- SALES on outdoor equipment from 40+ companies.

Located next to the Hood Canal bridge on the Kitsap Peninsula, between Seattle and the Olympic Peninsula, Port Gamble is so close, but feels like a world away. People often pass through on their way to Port Townsend or the coast, not knowing they’re passing through one of the best outdoor adventure areas in the northwest.

The third annual NW Adventure Sports Festival is a good reason to stop, even to plan your summer around.

For more information and to register: www.UnleashTheBeastNW.com, (360) 297-4659 or programs@kayakproshop.com.

Story and Photos by Rebecca Agiewich

Once upon a time, the oceanside town of Tokeland bustled with activity. In the late 1800s, this serene area on the north end of Willapa Bay on the southwestern coast of Washington throbbed with business from the oyster and lumber trades. Guests arrived in droves by steamer and carriage to stay at the popular Kindred Inn. Eager businessmen even talked of turning Tokeland into a Coney Island-style resort in 1910.

Sadly, those plans never materialized, and soon the community fell on hard times. A series of severe storms wreaked destruction on the low-lying peninsula in the 1930s. The Depression brought economic damage and a drop in tourism.

Today, as you stroll the quiet, salty-smelling streets of Tokeland, it’s hard to envision the raucous resort town the developers had in mind. However, it’s easy to see why people came here—and still do. The ocean surrounds you, and it’s easy to lose yourself in its rhythms.

Tokeland Hotel

One of the best vantage points for enjoying Tokeland’s serenity is the Tokeland Hotel (formerly the Kindred Inn). First established in 1885, the hotel has seen its fortunes rise and fall like the tides. Now the oldest resort hotel in Washington is thriving at the hands of its current owners.

After purchasing it in 1989, Scott and Katherine White have restored the national historic landmark to its turn-of-the-century glory.

With views of Willapa Bay in every direction, the 18-room hotel exudes warmth and friendliness. The wood floors, narrow staircases, and twisting hallways add to its charm. Rumor has it that a ghost haunts the upper floors and the antique décor makes you feel like you’ve stepped onto the set of a Clint Eastwood western—albeit a peaceful one. A full restaurant serves three meals a day, and a special Sunday dinner includes the hotel’s famous cranberry pot roast.

Watery adventures along the Cranberry Coast

From this welcoming home base, you’re only a stone’s throw from all that the “Cranberry Coast” has to offer, so named after the thousands of acres of cranberry bogs that were started by Finnish farmers along the coast nearly 150 years ago.

Stroll out the hotel door and east along Kindred Avenue with the ocean murmuring in your ear. After a few blocks, you reach Nelson Crab. Established in 1934, it was the first crab cannery on the West Coast. Today it’s still a thriving family business that ships its fresh-caught Dungeness crab around the world, and has a cool, retro storefront where you can step in and browse for seafood, packed and ready to take home.

A few blocks later, you reach the public dock at Toke Point. Here, the bay unfurls before you, boats bob gently on the water, and the Willapa Hills beckon in the distance. From here you can launch a kayak adventure onto the Willapa Bay Water Trail which stretches the length of pristine Willapa Bay. Access the water trail from the Tokeland Marina and paddle up the short Cedar River or into Willapa Bay. (Bring your own kayak; there are no outfitters nearby.)

More water adventures await both south and north on the Cranberry Coast. Head north on Highway 105 and you’ll find 18 miles of ocean beaches stretching through Tokeland and the northern towns of Grayland and Westport. Surfing, clamming, sport fishing, kite-flying, and whale watching are all popular here. A string of gorgeous state parks provide access to these beaches, including Grayland Beach State Park, Westport Light State Park and Westhaven State Park.

Alternatively, head south and take the scenic 30-mile route to the towns of Raymond and South Bend at the mouth of the Willapa River, where birding, hiking, and paddling opportunities abound. Regardless of your choice of excursions, Tokeland serves as an excellent place to relax or as a home base for your next coastal adventure.

If you go

Tokeland Hotel (pets welcome): www.tokelandhotel.com

Cranberry Coast Guide: cranberrycoastguide.com

Washington State Parks, Pacific Coast Region: www.parks.wa.gov/parks

Westport-Grayland Chamber of Commerce: www.westportgrayland-chamber.org

Willapa Harbor Chamber of Commerce: willapaharbor.org

Willapa Water Trail: www.wwta.org/trails/willapa_bay/

Rebecca Agiewich is a freelance travel writer living in Seattle.

By Sandra Kennedy

Photos by Keith Groves

Near the bustling tourist town of Cannon Beach, the Tillamook Head trail awaits at Ecola State Park. This breathtaking coastal hike stretches a moderate six miles from Cannon Beach to Seaside and features classic Oregon coast views: craggy cliffs, crashing waves, lighthouses, and fragrant forests of Sitka spruce.

Follow this trail and you’ll be walking in the footsteps of famous explorers Lewis and Clark, who crossed it in search of a beached whale. In 1806, this was the most westerly point of their expedition. When viewing the scenery from here, Capt. William Clark said, “From this moment I beheld the grandest and most pleasing prospects which my eyes ever surveyed.” More than 100 years later, you’ll be inclined to agree.

The hike

This hike is best done using a car shuttle, so you can enjoy a leisurely day on the trail.

If you start at the Indian Beach trailhead at Ecola State Park, like we did, leave another car at the Tillamook Head trailhead in Seaside.

From the Indian Beach trailhead, we switchbacked to the highest elevation of the hike at 1,130 feet. From here we got spectacular views of the Tillamook Head Lighthouse. Fog swirled around us on this fall day, creating a magical effect.

At 1.5 miles, we passed the area known as “Hiker’s Camp,” where free cabins are available on a first-come, first-served basis. No water is available, so bring your own.

In summer, the Tillamook Head trail is heavily used but in fall or winter you’ll have it practically to yourself. We saw hardly any other hikers on the foggy fall day that we hiked the trail. By the time we arrived in Seaside, we felt as pleased with our expedition as Lewis and Clark must have been.

How to get there

From Portland, take highway 26 towards the Oregon Coast. After about 80 miles, turn left on highway 101 south. Go four miles and take the first Cannon Beach exit. Turn right, following signs to Ecola State Park. After two miles you will come to the entrance booth ($5 day use pass). The picnic area is on the left and Indian Beach is 1.5 miles to the right.

Plan your trip

• Ecola State Park Office: www.oregonstateparks.org/park_188.php
• Seaside Chamber of Commerce: www.seasidechamber.com
• Cannon Beach Chamber of Commerce: www.cannonbeach.org

By Allen Cox

The Discovery Trail on Washington’s Long Beach Peninsula crosses a broad Pacific beach, grassy dunes, seaside forests and postcard-ready ocean bluffs.

You can bike it or walk it, and if you tackle all, or even a portion, of this remarkable mostly paved trail, you’ll be treated to some of the state’s most exhilarating seaside scenery, while enjoying stimulating art and interesting interpretive exhibits along the way.

Looking north from the Discovery Trail above the Long Beach Peninsula. Photo courtesy of Long Beach Peninsula Visitor’s Bureau.

You’ll also gain a new appreciation for the compelling history of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. The 8.5-mile Discovery Trail joins the popular vacation town of Long Beach on the north end of the peninsula and the historic fishing village of Ilwaco near the mouth of the Columbia River to the south.

Unlike many trails that connect towns, this one doesn’t parallel the highway in sight of traffic, but slices its own route through landscapes that attract photographers, painters and wildlife. Spend a short time on the trail and you’ll understand why.

The Discovery Trail can be explored again and again, with something new to surprise you each time. Make time for at least a portion of it whenever you’re on the Long Beach Peninsula. Many different access points make this easy to do in short round-trip stretches. Taking on the entire 17 mile roundtrip makes an excellent day-ride by bicycle, but on foot consider a light overnight pack and lodging at either end before the about-face return.

Trailside Points of Interest including “Graveyard of the Pacific”

Where the Lewis and Clark party reached the end of a long journey. Photo courtesy of Long Beach Peninsula Visitor’s Bureau.

The north trailhead begins at 26th Street North in North Long Beach (parking is available; secure or carry valuables). The Discovery Trail starts out paved in the dunes with the first point of interest (besides the Pacific Ocean) being “Clark’s Tree,” a bronze sculpture by Stanley Wanlass commemorating the carving Clark made in a pine tree Nov. 19, 1805. The inscription reads: “William Clark. Nov. 19, 1805. By land from the U. States.”

The trail continues south through the dunes, jockeying between pavement and boardwalk, a popular feature of Long Beach’s shoreline. The boardwalk offers elevated views out to sea, so carry binoculars to sweep the horizon for ships or even breaching whales.

Metal sculptures along the Discovery Trail show William Clark contemplating a sturgeon. Photo courtesy of Long Beach Peninsula Visitor’s Bureau.

In less than two miles, you’ll come to more sculptures. Pause at the basalt monolith inscribed with fascinating quotes from Clark’s journal about his observations in this area. A nearby bronze sculpture of Clark with a 10-foot sturgeon, by Washington sculptor Jim Demetro, suspends time and reminds us of the historical significance of the Lewis and Clark journey. You almost feel the life-size statue will speak.

In another half mile, you’ll encounter the bleached skeleton of a 38-foot juvenile gray whale that beached in 2000. The dead whale was buried on the beach and later excavated and installed as a natural history exhibit on this spot along the trail.

By now, you’ve passed several trailheads where Long Beach city streets meet the beach, each a possible place to cut your exploration short and turn back or to begin a shorter segment of the trail. If the weather is cooperating, keep going.

Past the whale skeleton, the trail continues for several miles through more isolated dunes and bluffs and, at around the six-mile mark, heads inland at Beard’s Hollow.

This stretch of Cape Disappointment was named for Captain E. N. Beard, whose ship, Vandalia, went down at the mouth of the Columbia in 1853. The entire crew was lost and Capt. Beard’s body was found on the circular beach at what is now known at Beard’s Hollow.

This stretch of Pacific Coast is one of the most treacherous to navigate anywhere on earth, earning it the name “Graveyard of the Pacific.” Since people began keeping track in 1792, about 2,000 ships have gone down in these waters, and fatal shipwrecks still happen.

NorthHead Lighthouse at sunset. Photo courtesy of funbeach.com

For an excellent primer on what makes these seas so dangerous, take the short spur trail from Beard’s Hollow to North Head Lighthouse, which is open to the public for tours. Climb the 69-step spiral stair to the light chamber and experience one of the foggiest and windiest spots on the West Coast. From here, weather permitting, you can survey the mouth of the Columbia and down the coastline into Oregon.

The Discovery Trail only skirts Cape Disappointment, so if time allows, continue on to explore the park before rejoining the main route. This side trip is well worth it with yet another lighthouse (Cape Disappointment Light), Waikiki Beach—a favorite with surfers, and views of crashing waves and turbulent seas near the mouth of the river.

Between Cape Disappointment Light and Waikiki Beach, you’ll find the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center, where you’ll gain a more in-depth historical perspective on the region. The westernmost installation of the seven-site Confluence Project by famed artist Maya Lin occupies this park as well, celebrating the confluence of rivers, sea and cultures.

Into Ilwaco

Hit the Discovery Trail again and go the final stretch into Ilwaco, a small fishing town with a colorful past of its own. In Ilwaco, the trail follows city streets to its terminus at the Port of Ilwaco. In town, you’ll pass the Columbia River Heritage Museum, worth a visit for a look at the region’s Chinook culture, pioneer settlement, and the early fishing industry that was so crucial to the area’s economy.

When you finish a thorough exploration of the Discovery Trail, you’ll not only have experienced some great scenery and a healthy dose of exercise, you’ll have a new appreciation for this fascinating corner of Washington state as well.

Discovery Trail Resources

You could begin the hike or bike ride at either end of the Discovery Trail or at many points along its route. If you’re in the region for a night or longer, you’ll find excellent lodging and restaurants near your starting point. Here are a few suggestions:

Longbeach:

Adrift Hotel, www.adrifthotel.com; (360) 642-3211; 409 Sid Snyder Drive

Boreas Bed & Breakfast Inn, www.boreasinn.com; (888) 642-8069; 607 N. Ocean Beach Blvd.

Seaview:

The Shelburne Inn, www.theshelburneinn.com; (800) 466-1896; 4415 Pacific Way

The Shelburne Restaurant & Pub, www.theshelburnerestaurant.com; (360) 642-4150

The Depot Restaurant,
www.depotrestaurantdin
ing.com; (360) 642-7880; 1208 38th Place & L

Ilwaco:

China Beach Retreat, www.chinabeachretreat.com; (360) 642-2442;
222 Robert Gray Drive

Pelicano Restaurant, www.pelicanorestaurant.com; (360) 642-4034; 177 Howerton Way SE

More information:

Long Beach Peninsula Visitors Bureau,
www.funbeach.com;
(800) 451-2542; Highways 101 and 103, Seaview

Allen Cox is a Northwest writer with a focus on travel, recreation and lifestyle.

Story and Photos by Craig Romano

Photo at right:  The 65-foot tall North Head Lighthouse near Long Beach.

Consider lighthouses the coastal equivalent of fire lookout towers. Utilitarian in their function and design, yet they possess a simple and eloquent beauty as well. Guiding lights through rough and stormy waters, we oft forget about their purpose and become more enamored by their settings.

And like their fire spotting brethren, many a lighthouse has been retired and their keepers replaced with automation. We romanticize about the folks who once staffed these structures—rugged individuals—determined souls.

While many of our coastal lighthouses can easily be reached by car—here are a few you can hike to, allowing more time to relish in their glory.

NW Trails is sponsored by:

Westport Lighthouse — Dunes Trail

Roundtrip: 4 miles

Elevation Gain: 25 feet

Fees/Restrictions: Discover Pass required if accessing trail from state park parking lots; dogs must be leashed.

Kid-friendly

Westport Lighthouse

The tallest lighthouse on the West Coast, the 107-foot high Westport Lighthouse projects a beam of light up to 25 miles into the frequently foggy sea. Built in 1898 at Point Chehalis on the southern entrance of Grays Harbor, thanks to years of accretion (the opposite of erosion) the lighthouse now stands a good third mile away from the shoreline. The massive South Jetty at the harbor’s mouth has helped capture shifting sands creating quite a dune complex near the lighthouse.

While most folks visit the lighthouse merely by walking a short path from Ocean Avenue, you can enjoy a wonderful four-mile out and back hike right from the Westport Marina. The concrete Dunes Trail begins at the end of Westhaven Drive near a new observation tower. Head south on this wonderful path and quickly escape Westport’s hubbub of whale watchers, deep sea fishers, and gift shop browsers.

Hugging Half Moon Bay, a popular spot for stand-up paddlers, the trail enters Westhaven State Park after about a half mile. This park, immediately adjacent to the South Jetty is a Washington hot spot for surfers. Cross the park access road and pick up the trail once again now traversing impressive primary dunes. Entering the 200-plus acre Westport Lighthouse State Park you’ll come to a couple of nice observation decks granting great views out across a wide strand of beach and to the jetty. Watch for sea birds and fishing vessels.

At about 1.8 miles the trail comes to a state park parking lot on Ocean Avenue. Now walk east on the sidewalk alongside salt-sprayed pines coming to the stately lighthouse after .2 mile. Visit the grounds for free, or pay for a tour (check hours at the Westport Maritime Museum) and climb the lofty lighthouse.

Yaquina Head Lighthouse — Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area

Roundtrip: 5 miles

Elevation Gain: 300 feet

Fees/Restrictions: Day-use fee or Oregon Pacific Coast Passport; dogs must be leashed.

Kid-friendly

Oregon’s tallest lighthouse can also be easily driven to, but that’s not what we’re all about here. The Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area with its showcase lighthouse contains several miles of outstanding trails. Do all or most of these interlinking trails and you will have yourself a good half-day outing.

Many of these trails are easy, and some wheelchair accessible. You can spend the entire day here exploring tide pools, and watching for puffins, seals, and eagles from windswept bluffs. Of course, there’s the lighthouse where tours are regularly scheduled.

Enter the Natural Area and drive a short distance to the first trailhead. Here the Quarry Cove Trail takes off left and right. Head left first dropping down to Quarry Cove, a cove that once was—a quarry!

The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) acquired Yaquina Head in 1980 to protect this scenic and biologically important area from an enlarged excavation.

After counting the seals, head back up to the trailhead and continue west soon coming to a junction. The trail right crosses the road and climbs 180 feet to Communications Hill where you can enjoy sweeping views south to Newport’s beaches and beyond.

Retrace your steps back to the Quarry Cove Trail and continue westward on the long jutting headland. Pass the interpretive center (or stop in and learn something) and come to the Cobble Beach Trail next. It’s a short hike down to this rocky little beach with its excellent tide pools.

There’s one more diversion before the lighthouse—the Salal Hill Trail taking off to the right for more excellent sweeping views. The lighthouse is a short ways now. Completed in 1873, it’s one of the oldest lighthouses in the state. At 93 feet tall—it’s the state’s tallest. Be sure to direct some attention also to Colony Rock just off shore. It’s a major seabird rookery. There’s good whale watching from this spot as well. For an area of just 100 acres, Yaquina Head packs a lot in.

North Head Lighthouse — Cape Disappointment State Park

Roundtrip Loop: 4.2 miles

Elevation Gain: 300 feet

Fees/Restrictions: Discover Pass required; dogs must be leashed.

Kid-friendly

Dramatic coastal headlands at North Head, in Cape Disappointment State Park.

Like the Westport Lighthouse, the beacon gracing Cape Disappointment’s North Head on the Long Beach Peninsula was also built in 1898. But this lighthouse only stands at 65 feet tall as opposed to Westport’s towering 107 feet. However, what makes this lighthouse so dramatic is its setting. It sits upon a 130-foot coastal headland overlooking one of the most treacherous sections of coastline on the Pacific.

As with Westport’s lighthouse, you can easily access North Head by driving to a short paved path. But why? We’re here to hike, right!? Instead, reach it via a wonderful 2.1 mile route over rugged North Head. The North Head Trail is one of the wonderful hiking options in the 1,884-acre Cape Disappointment State Park. Lewis and Clark named the wild seaside bluff back in 1805, during a miserable winter.

Start through a flat marshy area before heading up onto a small rugged ridge. Pass through mist-saturated groves of ancient Sitka spruce. Found primarily along the coast from Northern California to Southern Alaska, Cape Disappointment harbors nice stands of this scaly barked conifer.

At 1.8 miles, come to a parking lot. Turn left and continue .3 mile down a trail leading to the lighthouse. Savor the views and embrace the full force of the Pacific from this treacherous spot. Good thing there is a lighthouse here.

If you still want to explore, check out the lighthouse on Cape Disappointment, also in the park. Built in 1856, it’s the state’s oldest. Consider following the Westwind Trail one mile down to Beard’s Hollow on the beach.

Getting You on Your Way

Trailhead Directions

Westport Beach

Westport Lighthouse: From Aberdeen follow SR 105 west for 18 miles. Turn right onto Montesano Road and proceed four miles to the waterfront area where the road becomes Dock Street. Turn left onto Westhaven Drive driving four blocks to the trailhead at viewing tower.

Yaquina Head Lighthouse: From Lincoln City follow U.S. 101 south for 23 miles to Lighthouse Drive in Agate Beach. If coming from Newport follow US 101 north for three miles to Lighthouse Drive in Agate Beach.

North Head Lighthouse: Follow U.S. 101 to Ilwaco on the Long Beach Peninsula. Then take SR 100 (Robert Gray Drive) south two miles turning left into state park. Proceed .5 miles to a four-way stop. Turn right and in .25 mile, turn right again reaching trailhead in .4 mile.

Contacts

Westport Lighthouse:
www.lighthousefriends.com
www.parks.wa.gov

Yaquina Head Lighthouse:
www.blm.gov/or/resources/recreation/yaquina

North Head Lighthouse:
www.lighthousefriends.com
http://www.parks.wa.gov/parks

A massive Sitka Spruce on the North Head Trail.

Craig Romano is Trails Editor of Outdoors NW and the author of eight Northwest hiking guidebooks including the Winter Hikes of Western Washington (The Mountaineers Books), card deck, which includes more great coastal hikes. Visit him at http://CraigRomano.com

By Christine Soja

Photo at right: The author in her first race.

I could be cozy right now. I could be in my sweatpants, sipping a latté and reading the paper. It is Sunday after all. But I’m at frigid Woodland Park in Seattle squeezed into spandex bicycle shorts and a jersey. Butterflies in my stomach threaten to fly out of my mouth. Why would I be out in the not-so-kind elements, pumping up my nervous system and on the verge of throwing up? Cyclocross.

Hardcore cyclocross enthusiasts start young.

For the past 10 years I’ve braved blustery fall weather, cowbell in hand, cheering for my husband and then my kids as they rode through mud puddles and carted their bikes over barriers. Last year the boys started asking me “When is the mommy race?” and I didn’t have a good answer.

I’ve been a lifelong lover of cycling, but motherhood had put a considerable distance between my bike and me. The reply of “Maybe next year” was getting redundant and excuses were dwindling. It was time to jump in and face my fear of competition. I would risk failure for a piece of the joy and energy the racers clearly earned.

A goofy, homespun, and family-oriented community

Cyclocross courses are usually in local parks, where riders wind their way around trees, over roots, and through dirt, grass, and off-camber turns. Courses usually contain one or two barrier sections and a run-up, both of which require you to dismount and push or carry your bike across. This challenging type of riding is a great way to work out. The element of racing adds intensity and excitement.

Bike racing, however, can easily intimidate with the myriad of flashy team kits and high-end bikes. What I learned is that the cyclocross scene in Seattle is actually a goofy, homespun family-oriented community. Racers have been known to show up in underpants, pink tutus, Halloween costumes and Santa outfits. Maybe it’s the endorphins, or too many Shot-Blocks, but I found cross racers to be unanimously supportive.

“Because you can’t, you won’t, and you don’t stop”

When my race is called, I roll over to size up the competition. The lineup at the beginner race is nearly devoid of matching team uniforms or fancy bikes. This could simply be a group of spandex-clad people waiting for the bus. The women waiting to race are eager to share tips, past experiences, and commiserate over pre-race jitters. Suddenly I hear “Ready, set, GO!”

I focus on the path ahead and go into survival mode. It’s up to me to propel my bike around this 2.5 kilometer course three times. There are no meals to plan, no dishes to wash, and no fights to break up; just me and my bike. I’m thankful that the last song in the car was “Sure Shot” by the Beastie Boys, because the lyrics now urge me on: “Because you can’t, you won’t and you don’t stop.”

I tell myself “smooth and steady wins the race” as I grip the handlebars (not too tight) and keep my weight over the center of my bike (but not too stiff). Every muscle in my body is on duty. On a tight turn I avoid a crash by the sheer power of my eyebrows wincing in the right direction. My throat is dry, my heart pounds. I remind myself to breathe through my nose and catch my breath when the course pitches downhill.

I hear “Go mommy go!” and encouragement from others on the sideline. Each pass through the finish line I check-in with myself: Do I have enough left to make it to the finish?

Turns out, I do.

Practice makes perfect

A convert to cyclocross.

Cyclocross races happen nearly every Sunday from September to December, so there are plenty of opportunities to push you. This doesn’t allow much downtime during the season to get soft.

If I know I have to race on Sunday, I’ll keep on top of my workouts. I even found myself leading my sons in loops around trees through the park, and practicing my dismounting and remounting on the sidelines while they practiced soccer.

A great way to ride without the pressures of racing is to go out for cross practice (see sidebar below). Run by local riders, practices include a group warm-up, then a chance to self-select into an ability group (including one for brand new riders). After about 30 minutes of instruction and drills, riders are set free on the course to practice.

This is great fun, and offers ample time to practice basic cross skills such as surging up short hills, riding off-camber, and dismounting over hurdles. One night of practice left me with the confidence to try a race the following weekend.

A little bit of Zen

As the fall racing season took root, cyclocross became a cherished part of our week. We looked forward to cheering for each other and other families, and began to feel at home among the cowbells and spandex. The kids were happy to see everyone participating, and my husband and I were able to relate in a new way as fellow racers.

Being a part of cyclocross is fun whether you’re a spectator, supporter or participant, but the satisfaction of participating is addictive. During the event, your mind is calm and quiet; afterward you’re truly tired. There’s a little bit of Zen out there, and it’s available to anyone who hears the call every Sunday in the fall.

Resources for cyclocross riders in the Seattle area:

Seattle Cyclocross: seattlecyclocross.com

Races are on Sundays from September through December at a wide range of Seattle-area sites.

MFG Cyclocross: mfgcyclocross.com

An independent group of quirky cycling enthusiasts host races on the Sundays that Seattle Cyclocross does not.

Cycle U: http://cycleu.com/

Offers an early season half-day cyclocross camp for those who want to learn new skills or just get a jump start on the upcoming season.

Christine Soja is a freelance writer, teacher, and mother of two young boys. She enjoys spending time on her bike whenever she can.

By Hilary Meyerson

Photo at right: Trail Nine, overlooking Puget Sound.

As soon as I felt the wind on my face from the ferry deck, everything seemed to slow down. I watched the blue waters of Puget Sound distance me from both the bustle of Seattle and the pressing matters of my inbox. By the time I drove off the Edmonds-Kingston ferry, I was ready to recreate and relax. Destination: Port Ludlow.

Port Ludlow was a logging and sawmill town in the first half of the 20th century, but that all changed when the Hood Canal Bridge was built in 1960. Soon folks were flocking to this waterfront community for its recreation and leisure opportunities, and a planned community sprung up.

The Inn at Port Ludlow, from Burner Point.

Today, the Resort at Port Ludlow is still bringing folks over. It’s always been known as an idyllic maritime getaway (boaters fill up every dock slip in the sunny months) but now it’s a draw for those exploring by boat, foot or two wheels.

An Unusual Ride

A bike is perfect for exploring this classic resort. We started with a slow loop around the land where the Inn sits, which was once the location of the old sawmill. A gravel path encircles the Inn, and leads out to Burner Point, where an impressive totem pole holds center stage. The pole, carved from a single red cedar, tells the story of the history of Port Ludlow. It also served as a perch for an eagle for much of our day. As we pedaled up, it launched off and swooped down to the water, rising up again with a fish dinner in its talons.

Timberton Loop Trail – great for riding with a friend.

We headed to Trail Nine, one of the most unusual biking trails we’d ever experienced and one just opened to riders this spring. The winding, paved path is an unusual byproduct of a defunct nine holes. The Resort at Port Ludlow has a great golf course, but an overly ambitious additional nine holes were abandoned (they were too steep for play) and the old cart path is now perfectly suited to bikes. The extra nine holes are now a wild landscape of tall grasses, rolling hills and reseeded sand traps — a manicured landscape gone native.

The nine-hole course is a Certified Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary, just one of two golf courses in the state to hold the distinction.

The uphill paved path looked deceptively easy — but proved to be a bit of a thigh-burner. At the top of the bluff, however, we were rewarded by expansive views of Puget Sound before speeding downhill toward a long soak in one of the Inn’s oversized tubs. Less than an hour after we’d ridden to the top of the hill, we were being seated for dinner.

Dining by the Bay

Winemaker’s Dinner: culinary delights with a view.

The Inn offers two great options for dining. The Fireside Restaurant offers a cozy setting. It offers traditional Northwest fare, but several notches above what you’d expect in a pub. We were tempted to grab a Northwest microbrew and warm up in front of the flames, but tonight a special treat awaited.

We were fortunate enough to be present for a unique and intimate dining experience, one of the Resort’s signature winemaker dinners. Periodically, the Resort brings in a vintner who pairs wines with a fabulous six-course meal created by Executive Chef Dan Ratigan.

The winemaker introduces the wines and takes questions from the diners. Dinners are held in the Sun Room, with panoramic views of Ludlow Bay. It’s a festive atmosphere, with diners seated communally at tables of six or eight. We sat with some new friends, and enjoyed a four-hour tasting experience we won’t soon forget. Luckily, we had only to walk up the stairs and roll into bed, sated after a perfect day.

More adventures

Looking out of our window the next morning, the water of the marina was like glass. The Marina rents double or single sea kayaks, and it’s no wonder why they are popular. We watched the sea otters pop up like furry buoys and debated grabbing a kayak to go see them up close. However, we wanted to get back on our bikes and decided to drive to the trailhead of the Timberton Loop.

Unloading the Mitsubishi for a muddy trail ride.

We loaded all our gear into our Mitsubishi Outlander, which we’d brought for its ability to haul our bikes while getting us easily in and out of muddy off-road parking lots. The fold-down back gate feature was perfect for giving us a seat as we switched into our bike cleats.

The Timberton Loop Trail was a great trail for buddy riding. It’s an old logging road and still used for access for maintenance vehicles for the golf course. Riding two abreast, we could chat easily while pedaling through the trees. The trail overlaps a portion of another trail, the Niblicks Loop, which we took a short detour on to peek down on the active golf course. This section connects to a new trail, the Olympic Terrace Loop, which will be completed by the end of this year. Our only complaint about the Timberton Loop? Four and a half miles weren’t enough.

Too soon, it was time to load the bikes back on the car and head across the Hood Canal Bridge. The ferry terminal was our gateway back to the workweek and all those emails. But we agreed we were coming back to Port Ludlow. There were kayaks to be paddled and bike trails to be revisited, not to mention the soaking tubs and gourmet meals.

It was a perfect peninsula weekend.

Hilary Meyerson is the editor of Outdoors NW and an avid bike rider.